It is recommended that the habitation area of your motorhome is inspected annually to ensure that it is maintained in tip-top condition. All Electric offer a comprehensive annual service, which includes pressurising the gas system to ensure it is leak-free and carrying out a damp test to check for any water ingress. This can even be carried out while you wait.

Another recommended service is to have your motorhome treated with underbody and cavity protection to prevent any corrosion taking hold. This treatment is ideal for protecting your new or used motorhome. The process involves spraying the underside of the vehicle with Dinitrol, a durable, tough and water-repellent under sealing product, which forms an impenetrable barrier to road debris and salt. As you would expect, there is a dedicated workshop bay allocated specifically for this treatment. Prices are dependent on the size and we would be delighted to quote on an individual vehicle.

Now is the time you need to prepare your motorhome for use or storage during the colder months. The most important consideration is protection against frost, draining down the water system. Frost damage is not covered by warranties so this is a serious issue.

Draining down

First drain the fresh and waste water tanks. Most tanks are fitted with either a drain tap or internal drain plug (accessed via the tanks inspection cap). Leave the fresh water inspection cap off if you want so that the tank will air and stay fresh.
Switch on the water pump and open the taps. When the water stops running switch off the pump.
Next, drain the boiler. There are several ways of doing this depending on what type of boiler your motorhome is equipped with: - Truma combi boiler, automatic drain valve, press red knob down; Truma ultrastore, manual drain valve, lift yellow lever; Carver cascade, unscrew and remove drain bung, open rapid drain screw if fitted; Eberspacher, turn red knob quarter turn and hold until water has drained out.
With the pump or 12 volt power switched off, open all the taps. Leave mixer taps in the mid position between hot and cold.
If possible, unscrew the shower head and empty out the water. Don't lose the rubber washer!
Some motorhomes, Hymer springs to mind) have taps at low level to drain any water remaining in the pipe work - open these as well.
If the toilet has a separate tank for the flush water this should also be drained.
Refilling is pretty much the reverse of the drain down procedure.

Close all the drain points for the tanks, boiler and pipe work.
Don't forget to tighten water tank inspection caps if they were removed or left loose.
Close all the taps.
Fill the fresh water tank.
Switch on the pump.
Open a cold tap and wait until the water flows out steadily and then close it again.
Now open a hot tap and wait until the water flows out steadily (this may take a couple of minutes), then close it.
That's it, the system is primed and ready to go!
Tips
Truma automatic drain valve. Every year we hear tales of how the valve has had to be heated with a hair dryer or tied up with string because it was too cold to reset it and prime the water system! To override the frost protectin just switch on the boiler, reset the valve and prime the system immediately.

Got a Truma combi boiler? Want to heat the van but don't need to use the water system? You can do it, the boiler is designed to run like this. Use the heating only position on the wall switch. If you decide to use the water system the boiler MUST be switched off and allowed to COOL before priming the water.

Batteries

Batteries should always be stored fully charged, whether it is for a few weeks or several months.
Hook up for 48 hours to ensure the leisure batteries are fully charged.
Switch off EVERYTHING. Don't forget the inverters, satellite and freeview systems.
A top up charge is recommended every 6 - 8 weeks.
The starter battery has to maintain the vehicle ECU, alarm and tracker systems, even though the motorhome is not being driven. It will also require charging at intervals. On many vans the 230 volt charging system can charge both the leisure and starting batteries. Either together or as selected. Check your handbook.
If it is not possible to to hook up you can have a BATTERY MASTER fitted. It will maintain the starter battery by linking it to the leisure batteries.
Gas

To keep your gas system working in the colder weather you need to use PROPANE (red cylinders) not butane (blue cylinders).
Don't attempt to insulate the gas cylinder. The cylinder is like a boiling kettle, heated by air surrounding ot.
Remember gas can supply far more heat to your van than the 230 volt system can, up to 6kw (equivalent to 25 amps) from a combi boiler.